Prince of Wales
Island July 2nd to July 7th
Only July 2nd we returned to the ferry dock in
Ketchikan two hours ahead of boarding to get our tickets, get in line, and wait
for boarding ferry to Prince of Wales Island. This Island, as well as nearby
islands, were first settled by the Tlingit people. From the literature, we
learned that they were the most wide-ranging of the Southeast Alaskan tribes
and were “adept at trade with inland Natives and with Haidas and Tsimshian.” It
is thought that the Haidas established settlements on Prince of Wales sometime
in the 1700s. They came from Haida Gwaii, previously known as Queen Charlotte
Island of BC’s northern coast. Archaeologists have found artifacts that they
believe date back to as much as 10,300 years ago. There are petroglyphs on
several coastal rocks but they do not divulge the location to the public to
protect them from vandalism. There are
Totem Pole parks, fishing villages, and native Alaskan cultures thriving on
this island and we hoped to visit some of the Totem Pole parks such as the one in Klawock, pronounced (kloo-wah).
Totem Pole in Klawock |
While we were waiting in the ferry line, Tim struck up a conversation with two
couples already in line and began talking fishing. It seems that one of the
couples, Bill and Lee, has been going to the Island for years to fish. They had
a pickup camper and were towing a boat. The other couple, Frank and Linda, had
been there before and knew Bill and Lee. They had a pickup with their tenting
supplies. Each couple had also brought a large freezer to take home their
catch! During our 3 hour ferry ride, we spoke to them some more and got the lay
of the land on the Island. They were headed to Coffman Cove on the northeast
shore and suggested we follow them there to Oceanview RV Park.
Meanwhile, the ferry ride through this section of the Inner Passage was a little rough but the scenery was worth getting our sea
legs back. No whales on this passage, but the islands, the fishing boats,
shoreline villages and lighthouse views made for perfect backdrops for the
cruise ship passing by.
I was told upon exiting my car on the car deck that I would
have to be the first one off the ship so they could clear the way for the walk
on passengers. Fifteen minutes before landing in Hollis, I had to go down and
get ready to drive off. As we came nearer the dock, they opened the door and I
was looking out directly at the pilings as we swept past them. I’m glad they
had the wheels blocked so I wouldn’t go rolling off! Then came the dropping of
the ramp for exiting. Sitting there I swore it was going to land on the hood of
the car.
All my worries were for naught, they landed, I drove off and met Tim a little ways up the road to hook up the car to the RV.
Originally, we were going to get off the ferry in Hollis,
park the RV in the closest campground and then tour the island in the car. We
weren’t sure of road conditions on the island and didn’t want to get into rough
gravel roads with the RV. As it turns out, Prince of Wales Island has some of
the best road conditions in Alaska and they are improving them every year. So,
we decided to do the 80 miles to Coffman Cove. And we are very glad we did!
We arrived at the campground and were thankful that at
9:50pm we still had daylight get situated and help Frank and Linda unload and
get their tent set up. The campground is right on the water and the little town
is a ten minute walk.
The first day, Tim and I walked to town while the others
were busy setting up for their longer stay here. (Bill and Lee stay a month
while Frank and Linda will be there 2 weeks.) There is one store, a health
clinic (new last year), a post office, an elementary school, a city hall, a
library that doubles as a “take and bake” pizza parlor, a take- out restaurant,
a bar, a lodge and a large marina with many fishing boats. We met some folks
who told us the population in winter is 100 and swells to 200 during the summer
with a few folks drifting in and out (like us). We were impressed with the
maintenance of the buildings and some new construction with what looks to be in
floor heating going in. The locals told us that the winter isn’t too bad..16
being their lowest temperatures and only 4 -6 inches of snow at a time, but a
lot of the residents are only here in the summer. The weather now is in the 50s with winds off
the water making it pretty chilly. I brought out my wool crew hat and gloves
and warmer jacket!
View from Campsite |
Bill and Lee seem to know just about everyone in town and
have fished with them all for many years. When we strolled down the docks again
in the afternoon, we watched three teenagers filleting huge silvers (salmon) so
skillfully. Lee explained that the young lady had been doing it since she was 9
years old!
On the second day, July 4th, Tim was invited to
go fishing with all of the others in Bill’s boat while I stayed back in the
warmth of the RV. The weather turned nasty on them and it took an hour an a half to get back from their 20 minute jaunt out to Whale Pass. Thanks to the good job that Captain Bill did it wasn't any longer.
Coming In from Fishing |
In the next two days, we toured through Hollis, Craig, Klawock and Thorne Bay. Craig is the largest of these with a population of over 1000, Klawok has about 850, Thorne Bay has 495 and Hollis has 163. The two main industries on the island are fishing and logging. In the past, mining was also done in Hollis. All of the towns have docks, schools, and libraries,and some have float plane capability, medical services, and grocery stores. Island living here is quiet and relaxing..except for the 4th of July and its fireworks that is.
Lots of Deer along the road |
Klawock |
Craig |
Thorne Bay |
Tim Fishing |
Klawock Library |
View from Island Road |
There are not many visiting RVers on the island. In fact, we were the only RV on the ferry both to and from Prince of Wales. Exploring the out of the way places is what we came up here to do, so I guess we're on the right track!
Tim in RV boarding Ferry |
Patch of Blue on Grey Day |
Our ferry ride back to Ketchikan was uneventful and once again we stayed at Walmart awaiting a ferry tomorrow night to take us to Wrangell.
Hi, Tim and Kate-
ReplyDeleteHave been following, but Dale has been unable to post comments, not sure why.
Sounds like things are going well, and you are seeing a lot! Just beautiful photos!
Enjoy!
Paula